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Thread: 355 clutch slave cylinder removal procedure.

  1. #1
    ferrari-spider Guest

    Default 355 clutch slave cylinder removal procedure.

    Once the rear bumper, exhaust system and clutch/flywheel has been removed the tools needed are, 8mm socket, rubber mallet and brake fluid.

    1/ If there has not been a leak of any type first undo the bleed nut to relese pressure of the fluid (1).

    2/At the top of the slave/bearing carryer there are x2 8mm bolts (pic 2) that hold the slide restrictor in place. Undo these and then pull the slave/bearing away. The unit will now be in ya hand, and x2 springs will just fall out of the two spring slots, pick up and put with restrictor unit.

    3/ Check and clean the imput shaft for scores and fluid hole blockages (pic 3).

    4/ Smear the new slave cylinder/bearing seals inside the new unit with clean clutch fluid (pic 4)

    5/ Press the new unit home using an even yet very firm push to get seals over the shaft.

    6/ Once the unit is all the way on replace the x2 rear springs into there cutouts (pic 5)

    7/ Fit the x2 8mm bolts and restrictor back onto the gear box housing.

    8/ Bleed the clutch unit using the valve in picture 1. Job done dudes


    Notes/ the whole slave cylinder/bearing swap job takes maybe 5 minuets.
    Also you will see that my old factory unit has indeed burst the alloy (pic 6)casting Pushing some of the whole seal through the crack. The new unit which is made by Paul Hills has more meat on the unit and is a more robust unit, see the comparason pictures 7 & 8
    The 355 that the unit had come from was a 1995 spider with 42k miles on the clock.
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  2. #2
    Hud's Avatar
    Hud is offline Post whore with no life, no friends, and a problem fitting into normal social circles Club Member
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    Nice work Chas. Assume it's you doing the work mate?

  3. #3
    ferrari-spider Guest

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    Indeed, it took 50 minuets to take of the bumper, exhaust and clutch/fly wheel. And another hour to put it all back together I was going to let Cartwright do it but he has a 4 week waiting list Any ways i saved me self well over a grand Which is good

  4. #4
    stevew is offline Post whore with no life, no friends, and a problem fitting into normal social circles Expert
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    another good write up mate glad it's all back together.Did you not need to split the flywheel and repack the grease?

  5. #5
    ferrari-spider Guest

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    Na mate i repacked mine last year, i think it was the first time since it left the factory. You realy dont need to do that at every clutch change. Chaging a clutch is a short walk in the park, takes less than two hours for a clutch change
    I do know on the 348s that the flywheel has to be re-packed when the car has hot start problems. This is to do with the balancing harmonics

  6. #6
    stevew is offline Post whore with no life, no friends, and a problem fitting into normal social circles Expert
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    Quote Originally Posted by ferrarispider
    Na mate i repacked mine last year, i think it was the first time since it left the factory. You realy dont need to do that at every clutch change. Chaging a clutch is a short walk in the park, takes less than two hours for a clutch change
    I do know on the 348s that the flywheel has to be re-packed when the car has hot start problems. This is to do with the balancing harmonics
    Yeah,I've read a lot about the flywheel being the cause of hotstart problems on the 348,also read about the grease being contaminated with clutch fluid when the slave cyl leaks.Just doing a bit of forward thinking regarding mine.
    Can you remmeber were you got the grease from when you did yours? would be handy to have a supplier in mind just in case

  7. #7
    ferrari-spider Guest

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    Yea i know what you mean about contaminating the clutch and grease in the fly wheel. But mine was not touched at all. It all happend at the back of the bearing and the clutch unit was all dry
    I got my grease from the dealers (Evens Shaw) the parts guy Shadow got me some, its the same out fit Dale works for

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