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Thread: 348 DIY "Restoration"

  1. #2291
    Mike01606's Avatar
    Mike01606 is offline Kid's bed - The Ferrari F50 Club Member
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    Hi Jeff,

    Good to see you back working on the car and posting

    With your shiny new wheel bolts I'd consider the HE chrome saver socket which prevents the chrome being chipped on the corners by a steel socket. It's an alloy socket that bites onto the flat edge of the bolt. I found mine excellent....There maybe be alternative 17mm ones out there also.

    The wheel is a shame and I think once you get moisture in a mag alloy wheel it's hard to get it out. I'd speak to a few mag wheel experts for opinions about pre-treatment/conversion coating before painting if you want to stop it coming back.

  2. #2292
    irarref's Avatar
    irarref is offline Nowhere to put the shopping -The Ferrari F40 Club Member
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    Thanks Mike - I have been very busy on the car but for some reason the posting of pics has got difficult so it's a real chore to post up :-(

    I actually have a Hills socket - keep it handy in my frunk since all my bolts are new now :-)

    The wheel will have to do for now since it's my daily driver now after having my other car written off due to a careless delivery driver :-(

    When it (or ine if the other) gets bad again Ill have a rethink.

    So setup now is 15mm front, 25mm rear with all spacers being of the pass through type where the bolts go into the original steel hub. Only downside is that its a pain to put the wheels on unless using a wheel mounting lug (which I have too).

    Forgot to post a few pics...whoops!!

    The Hills Engineering spacers looked like they were annodised (I think) but to make them the exact same colour as my hub I gave them a list dusting over of the caliper paint I used on the hubs (sad I know).

    Before (I think)

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    And after (I think)

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    The new wheel inserts are a tight fit so a quick spray with wd40 really helps them go in then its a case of using an old bolt and Hills socket (hello Mike) to tap them down into place until you hear the tone change when knocking them in. Your advised in the instructions above to keeo rechecking the torque so they end up getting seated properly anyway but I want to start off with it as close to start with.

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    Old bolt on spacers being removed

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    And off the car - if anyone wants them just PM me as I wont be using them again.

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    Bare hub as originally intended

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    all the hardware I bought - bolts are 77mm in length (this is for an early 348 - may be different for a late 348/355 as they had wider brake shoes so check your car by removing hub off car and doing amockup assemby of wheel, spacer and hub bolted together).

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    And new bolt through spacers on

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  3. #2293
    milkshaker0007's Avatar
    milkshaker0007 is offline Only 37 known common faults - The Ferrari 355 Club Member
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    Nice work Jeff

  4. #2294
    irarref's Avatar
    irarref is offline Nowhere to put the shopping -The Ferrari F40 Club Member
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    Thanks Mike :-)

    Found yet another pic showing the side profile of how the wheels lie i relation to bodywork.

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    One thing that has bugged me for ages is that some of the script on the side badges has worn off.

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    The badges are held on by the prongs on the back of the badges passing through the bodywork with round clips on the other side.

    I tried levering the clips off inside the bodywork but they are just in too an awkward place next to the radiator. In the end I very, vary carefully prised off the badge using a screwdriver protected with a cloth.

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  5. #2295
    irarref's Avatar
    irarref is offline Nowhere to put the shopping -The Ferrari F40 Club Member
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    After prising it away from the outside if you then push the badge back against the bodywork if you go back to inside the clips are pushed back far enough to then get a tool under them to get them fully off.

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    Once both the clip/washer things are off you (and usually lost down inside the car) you can pull the badge off completely just leaving 2 holes.

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    After seeing the muck left behind I decided to apply some siicone behind the badge to make it weather tight

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    Back of the badge siliconed up (generously!!)

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    Once you have the prongs through its a case of getting the clips back on which is one of the mostly fiddly thing ever to do. I ended up taping them gently to a spanner then pushing them one with my finger - couldn't take a pic as all my hands were used up!!!

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    Badge on :-)

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    When I come to do the other side I think I will do things a little differently. I wish that I had put mole grips on each prong to pull it into the bodywork as one end is slightly proud which most people don't notice but I do :-(

    Also, one thing to note is there are 2 different type of badges - one where the designo script is above the pininfarina (wrong type) and one where it is to the side (correct). part# 20043105 £50 Guess which type costs about twice the other???!!!
    Last edited by irarref; 05-10-2019 at 10:40 PM.

  6. #2296
    irarref's Avatar
    irarref is offline Nowhere to put the shopping -The Ferrari F40 Club Member
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    Bagged myself a bargain (IMO) this week :-)

    On eBay I noticed that someone was selling some replica front 355 wheels for £150 each that were the type that Eurospares were selling for a while a couple of years back.

    Initially I was just going to buy 1 so I had a full size spare but with the low price I decided to buy both and and see whether they feel any different. If its negligible Ill be replacing my magnesium ones with it and say goodbye to my bubbling problems


    Absolutely identical in appearance . Only difference in practical terms is that being aluminium rather than magnesium so about 50% heavier.

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  7. #2297
    irarref's Avatar
    irarref is offline Nowhere to put the shopping -The Ferrari F40 Club Member
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    I meant to post up before but couldn't find the email but just for reference:

    Real original Magnesium front wheels weigh: 22lbs / 9.98Kg

    and the Eurospares Aluminium copies weighs 31.7lbs/14.38Kg

    Next time I have cause to remove the wheels I'm going to test out whether I can fit them to front and back etc in an emergency situation and then carry extra bolts etc if I need to so I have a spare to cover front or back as a get you home option.

  8. #2298
    irarref's Avatar
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    Had been getting a bit worried this past few weeks as the clutch felt pretty awful ie nothing seemed to happen whilst the pedal was being depressed near the top - it was almost as if the active range of the clutch was just a few inches and the gears were starting to become difficult to engage. Was a bit confused as the clutch was pretty "young" in terms of miles as was my Hills slave bearing. In the end I decided it wouldn't do any harm to bleed the clutch as a test.

    Bought myself a length of tube from the local car shop and just recycled my end stopper - think I spent about £3 IIRC

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    Cut a slit in the tube to make the "one way valve"

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    I then jammed it over the end of the bleed nipple - it was a bit too tighter fit to be honest as I could only get it half on so used some thin nosed pliers to push it completely over the nipple.

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    You don't even have to jack the car up to do this - I cut the length of the pipe so it fitted into my cup near the bottom. It's not essential to reach the bottom because of the one way valve action but old habits die hard LOL

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    I then cracked off the pipe using a 13mm brake spanner

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    Attached Images Attached Images  

  9. #2299
    irarref's Avatar
    irarref is offline Nowhere to put the shopping -The Ferrari F40 Club Member
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    And now at the front - open the bonnet/frunk and remove the unclip the cover for the fluid resevoir

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    Unscrew the cap (hold the pipe in place in case it tries to go with the cap to reveal the sieve) and remove the "sieve" to keep out debris. A bit of a contadiction I know but it makes it a lot easier to see the fluid level.

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    Now put your key in ignition and turn to position 1 (or until you hear the ABS pump buzzing and if your watching you'll see the fluid resevoir fluid drop as the abs system sucks fluid into it's resevoir. If you look carefully at pic above and below you can see the different levels.

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    I did 5 pumps of the pedal before checking the level/refilling if necessary but eventually ending up doing 10 pumps at a time. NB The manual indicates that that you might have to pull the pedal back by hand but I didn't find that in my case.

    5 pumps only got to fill the bleed tube - looked nice and clean to me and was about to stop but thought - hey ho I already have the brake fluid so I'll just do a few more - glad I did in end.

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    I bought a big bottle of DOT 4 from last time. I couldn't find my little funnel so ended up distilling it into a small tupperware type container.

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    Put plenty of absorbent blue roll where you refill just in case. I topped it right near the top the first few tines as you can just keep pumping to get the leve where you want.

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    Persistence paid off - look how dirty the fluid is.

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    When I thought it was running clean I swapped the cup out expecting it to run clean now..

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    Nope - in for a surprise again - as you can see below - there's the original very dirty fluid, current pump situation and the brand new fluid on the end for "control purposes"

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    Again I poured the middle (cleanish) fluid into the dirty cup and tried again to check that it matched the clean sample of fresh fluid. Although it looks darker in pic in reality it was the same colour so locked off the bleed nipple - checked the reservoir was still a good level then reassembled everything.

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    *** IMPORTANT ***

    In a similar way to checking engine oil when teh car has just stopped - the fluid reservoir level must be checked when the pump is active ie you can hear the buzz - as it drops when the abs pump is active.


    Went for a road test and clutch feels just like old times plus I can select any gear (including 2) even from cold so result all round and cost...nothing...! It's also got that feel of full travel back too :-)

    BTW if you have all the tools to hand and are not taking any pics I reckon you can do this in about 1/2 hour easily (and realistically).

  10. #2300
    A348W's Avatar
    A348W is offline I don't use deodorant Club Member
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    Jeff, nice fix!!

    So is this a one man job?(Iíve not seen before) Ie crack the bleed nipple, leave it cracked off and with ignition at 1, pump the clutch peddle?

    Appreciated
    Adrian

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