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Thread: F430 New owner diary inc. maintenance & upgrades

  1. #21
    markst is offline You thought the Enzo was ugly? - The Ferrari FXX
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    looks just like my car !

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike01606 View Post
    Some great pictures so thanks for sharing them.....

    Every time I see 430 manifolds I cannot believe the design of the 4 pipes into the collector. It looks as if the designer had no understanding of thermal expansion and how welds can affect thin walled tubing.

    Underneath the skin the chassis and suspension are identical to the 360......
    Thanks. The mounting system of the exhaust isn't great either. Chassis is identical - it's just the bolt on parts that differ

    Quote Originally Posted by geoffpfc View Post
    As the original manifolds appear to have insulation and the new one's don't, are you concerned about additional heat within the engine compartment.
    I suspect the triple layer ceramic coating I have is more efficient than the factory approach. I'll gather some data eventually.

    Quote Originally Posted by Modificato View Post
    Really Pleased you are posting on here as PH forums seemingly wont allow new users to comment almost everyday due to the amount of trolls on there.

    Anyway, very interested in your journey as I am pursuing a similar path with my own 2007 F1 Coupe.

    I am an engineer (aeronautical) by profession and have been using spanners since as long as I remember. I have a history in motorsport so drive my car as intended by its designers. I also do troubleshooting work in the industry mostly subject to non-disclosure agreements but suffice to say the premium segment contains a lot of my customers. I take a similar approach to improvement to you staying as much as I can to having the tediously required FFSH for resale, but use independents / DIY to do my upgrades. I am always underwhelmed by the modern service experience and have done work with a couple of marques to improve it but there is nothing like working on your own car to make you quality conscious. To my eye there are parts of the Ferrari designs that are just plain lazy and frustrating but as you say the business bits they get spot on. I have witnessed there testing (was there last week) but unfortunately their customers in the main don't replicate the testing profiles one bit. Maybe on in 500 do. Anyway...

    I am currently on Mk2 Headers with Capristo mounts but looking to source a Titanium cat-back system to take some weight (and hence stress) out of the stock system, add some nice Ti resonance to the exhaust note, and not spend my life getting CEL warnings.

    I am intrigued by your brake choice as I am going the stock CCM route.

    My overall goal is to get somewhere near a challenge look and feel for my car so it sits somewhere between stock and a scud.

    Will be good to keep up-to-date with upgrades.
    Thank you - didn't know that about PH either. I would love the Kline Ti system eventually; it seems like the perfect solution as I still want some noise supression for road trips.

    I'm feeling quite imimpressed by main dealer service at the moment and have made the decision to cease the FFSH and use Shiltech instead.

    Quote Originally Posted by markst View Post
    looks just like my car !
    Good choice

  3. #23
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    Thursday 11th September 2014

    Rear Tie Rods
    The Hill Engineering rear tie rod ends arrived. They are stainless steel ball joints encased within a billet aluminium end. The original Ferrari ends are plated ball joints in a forged alloy end. Ferrari fitted the arms in 2011 as a complete assembly and they hadn't used any anti-sieze compond which I always find vital when dealing with alloy threads. I had to cut off one of the original ends as it wouldn't budge even with heat applied. I've also bought new bolts to secure the end plates.
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    Assembly fitted.
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    I removed the A/C compressor to gain better access to the N/S exhaust nuts, and one of the three securing bolts sheared off in the block. Thank God it was the lower bolt (see arrow) which is easy to access otherwise it could have been a huge amount of work to rectify! It turns out that Ferrari use a grade 12.9 bolt for one of the three, with the others being 8.8! Combine that grade of bolt with an alloy thread in a hot engine block without any anti-sieze and you have a potential recipie for disaster. I decided to Helicoil the mount to make it better than original. I also replaced the bolts with new ones this time all in grade 12.9.
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    Manifolds fitted
    Manifolds coated, and new studs from Ferrari. They are only 71p each so it makes sense to replace them. The nuts were from VW as it happenend; most manufacturers now use M8 exhaust studs with the smaller 12mm hex head.
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    It took me twenty minutes to fit the new manifolds which is in stark contrast to the four hours it took to remove the stock manifolds! The replacements fit well - a little tight around the studs compared to OEM, but that's no bad thing - so at this point they are looking to be a complete bargain. Let's see how they hold up to regular use.
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    Hill Engineering Foot Rest
    I ordered this at the same time as the ball joints. The standard Ferrari foot rest is just a black rubber peice stuck onto an aluminium back plate. The Hill piece matches the rest of the pedals.
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    Standard rest:
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    Hill Engineering were brilliant to deal with and the service was great, and fast. The products are excellent quality so I certainly recommend them.

    Friday 12th September 2014
    I finished off the manifolds this evening and gave them a quick test: no leaks. I replaced all of the undertray and wheelarch fastenings with stainless versions - there are a lot of them.
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    There is a recess and nice pair of tan leather straps in the glove box to mount a Ferrari Maglite. My car was missing this so whether it is an optional extra or previous owners just keep them for a memento, I don't know, but they are probably the most expensive Maglite mini there is
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    I think it's a nice touch.
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  4. #24
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    Default Maglite

    This was standard. A lot go missing for various reasons. Luckily mine was in place when I bought my 430.

  5. #25
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    mine too.

    The factory covers seem to be the most pilfered item and re-sold on eBay.

    When selling a car of this value why someone would hold onto 100-150 worth of cover and a Maglite is just comical to me but I guess dealerships also take their trophies.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by excursion View Post
    Thanks. The mounting system of the exhaust isn't great either. Chassis is identical - it's just the bolt on parts that differ

    I would love the Kline Ti system eventually; it seems like the perfect solution as I still want some noise supression for road trips.

    I'm feeling quite imimpressed by main dealer service at the moment and have made the decision to cease the FFSH and use Shiltech instead.


    Good choice

    I hadn't seen the Kline system it looks nice but even though it describes a valve system the picture doesn't show it. Have you seen the Rowen / Tommy Kaira systemhttp://www.auto-style.jp/item_img/TMK91174330001.jpg

  7. #27
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    Thanks both - suspected that would be the case.

    Quote Originally Posted by Modificato View Post
    I hadn't seen the Kline system it looks nice but even though it describes a valve system the picture doesn't show it. Have you seen the Rowen / Tommy Kaira systemhttp://www.auto-style.jp/item_img/TMK91174330001.jpg
    I hadn't seen that before; it looks impressive though I do prefer a more OEM style.

  8. #28
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    Thursday 18th September 2014
    Some photos from today:
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    I've now covered approximately 600 miles since the manifolds went on and they are performing faultlessly. The sound on full chat is rawer than stock and quite simply incredible.

    I'm still getting used to arriving back at the car to find people looking around it or taking photos, the biggest surprise so far finding a wedding party having their pictures taken. The attention thus far has all been genuine and quite pleasant, which is good as it's not something I really seek out, though I've been happy to oblige the photo taking.

    Saturday 4th October 2014
    Some routine and preventative maintenance this afternoon.

    My car had the 'early type' wheel centres so I ordered a set of the 'new type', which are a darker yellow that is essentially Giallo Moderna, which is a better match for my rev counter and Ferrari bdages.
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    Fitted.
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    Whilst renewing the brake fluid I wanted to address another potential problem area which is the distribution block for the clutch slave cylinder. The OEM part can suffer hairline cracks which are usually caused by over tightening of the bleed union, but sometimes they can appear on their own. I had also read online that the OEM part was plastic.

    To pre-empt any potential problems I bought a Hill Engineering uprated version, which is billet aluminium part, anodised black. Hill were great as usual and worked with me to pin down a postal service that ensured it was with me today - I onlt ordered yesterday, late morning. Thanks Diane!
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    With a duvet protecting the rear of the car, I leaned over and managed to replace the part from above with the engine bay lid open. It took around 25 minutes to do. The securing hex on the rearmost union was slightly rounded suggesting that the part may have been replaced before, so I may replace that line in due course.
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    Here's the original part: it's alloy, albeit of a lower grade than the Hill part, and it can be noted that for some reason the bleed union has been milled short which obviously will contribute to a weakness should the bleed nipple be over-tightened.
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    On to renewing the brake/clutch fluid. I use a pressure bleeder as it makes the operation so much simpler.
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    Calipers are fairly common-or-garden Brembo items with a bleed nipple for each side.
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    All done. The old fluid in the calipers was very clean so in fairness to Ferrari the fluid had been changed at some point, and it was just the clutch aspect which was overlooked.
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  9. #29
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    Sunday 26th October 2014
    I've done some quick temperature tests in the engine bay following fitment of the aftermarket manifolds/headers, and despite them being coated, temps are in places 50 degrees higher than with the stock manifolds in place. It's not a huge issue, but I'm not happy with it so over winter I will remove the manifolds and send them to be triple coated. I will use http://www.camcoat.com/main/coatings2.html for the work; they offer a 'RaceSpec' version which is a triple exterior coat and single internal coat - which is tried and tested in Le Mans cars - but I'm cautious of introducing any possible failure modes within the exhaust primaries, which is of course the very reason for removing the stock manifolds in the first place, so in view of that I will stick to a triple exterior coat. This should bring bay temps lower than with the very well insulated stock manifolds in place.

    I did mention in a previous post that I would at some point revisit the engine bay clutch line which was knurled at the clutch distribution block end, which is the likely result of a previous clutch block change. Whilst making the line I decided to address another potential problem area: the steel hardline on manual gearbox F430's takes a rather tortuous route which exposes it to the heat of the manifold primaries without the benefit of any heat insulation whatsoever. The orange lines in the following photo illustrate this:
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    In view of the above my replacement line will be of a different construction and take a different route. Thankfully the master cylinder to slave cylinder line that runs the length of the car is composed of multiple pieces, and the section I want to replace is joined at a very accessible location at the front of the engine:
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    The hose of choice is -4 Aeroquip PTFE inner/stainless braid covering. I'm using a Banjo fitting at the clutch block end to allow the hose to pass directly downwards from the block.
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    I have some 'extreme' hear barrier (bottom) that is a snug fit over the -4 hose, and for maximum protection some fire sleeve (top) on top.
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    Here's the OEM clutch line removed (top) and my replacement (bottom).
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    Replacement line in situ, showing the new route. Green arrows indicate hose connections and the smaller blue arrows indicate the stainless fixings I used to secure the new line to the gear change cables.
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    The clutch was bled through and test. Fluid of choice is Motul RBF600
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    Whilst working on the clutch hydraulic system I wanted to provide some protection for the distribution block. Regardless of what type of manifolds are fitted, the block is within 50mm of the neck of the stock catalytic converter, which obviously is not coated - none of the stock system is - and also falls outside the reach of the stock heat shield. I had noticed that the clutch block can be hot to the touch after a run, which obviously isn't ideal, so my plan was to create a heat shield in a similar vein to the stock part protecting the CV boots.

    'Nimbus' was my material of choice, but rather than buy the branded product I located a heat shield on eBay from a mass produced car. It's the same stuff, but brand new only cost a small amount. The part I used was from a Citroen!
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    A few cardboard mock-ups later I had a pattern that would work. I also fabricated a bracket from 2mm aluminium that would mount to the clutch block and utilise its mounting bolt.
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    Close up of bracket and shield. The shield looks a little messy here because I designed it with overlapping sections that will be held together by the sheet metal screws used to affix the assembly. I also designed the shield so that overlap join sections face away from the heat source.
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    Bracket in situ. Clutch bleed block still easily accessible from above, below, and directly in front.
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    Shield in place. This photos show how it looks much neater once clamped down to the bracket.
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    Engine bay view. The photo shows how the shield follows the contours of the gearbox, and also just how close the clutch block is to the cat.
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    Sunday 2nd November 2014
    Wing/fender shields courtesy of Denver308 on Ferrari life. These are a high quality replica of the OEM shields.
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    My temporary gel badges removed and replaced with the high quality versions.
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    Another cosmetic detail I really like was the Cavallino Rampante ("prancing horse") that comes fitted to the optional carbon fibre fuel flap.
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    I'm not really a fan of the contrast of CF in the middle of a panel hence I didn't want to fit the entire accessory flap, so I tracked down a genuine Ferrari prancing horse in the correct size which I will affix to the standard fuel flap.
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    This weekend also heralded the start of my F430's winter hibernation which brings with it a chance for me to spend time addressing a number of the more significant potential problem areas on the model. At this point in time the car is great, but it has just hit 30k miles and this was a factor in me taking the decision to spend time and money pre-empting any issues so that I can - hopefully - enjoy the car for the next few summer periods to come. My winter list in priority order is:

    - Replace clutch with a new OEM version, and the release/throw out bearing & flange with Hill Engineering versions;
    - Triple ceramic coating on manifolds/headers;
    - Replace front track rod ends with Hill Engineering versions;
    - Replace all ball joints and boots with Hill Engineering versions;
    - Replace all arm bushes with Superformance versions;
    - Replace anti-roll/sway bar bushes and links.

    Given I've already addressed the manifolds I should end up in a good position. I will carry out all the work myself.

    Clutch replacement
    I will document my work in case it is of use.
    My plan of attack is to leave the transmission within the engine bay and simply slide it back to provide access to the bell housing and flywheel. I will support the transmission with a hoist or a transmission jack/cradle. I am quite sure I can complete the job without removing the transmission support frame.

    To start I removed, in order:
    - Left and right rear side panels;
    - Exhaust silencer - the studs snapped which was expected;
    - Airbox;
    - Catalytic converter heat shields; optional but provides more visibility of the transmission;
    - Transmission mount heat shield.
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    This provides the following clearance - right side:
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    Left:
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    Overall view. I have placed some cloth underneath the header tank to protect it.
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    Rear diffuser removed.
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    Car jacked up and under tray removed. I have this off to a pretty fine art now: 15 minutes or less.
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    Gear change cable ball joints disconnected from mechanism, and cable bracket removed from the gearbox with cables attached. Three of 7mm nuts.
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    Driveshaft CVs unbolted. 13mm 12 point nuts.
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    This next job was the worst so far. The E-Diff solenoid and sensor multiplugs are covered in adhesive foil-backed fiberglass heat insulation. The insulation has to be carefully cut off as it can't be removed in one piece without risk to the fragile cables underneath, so as a result one needs to be careful of many fibreglass strands which are liberated once the foil backing is cut.
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    The car is a pleasure to work on. Some of the trim items are flimsy as I previously noted, but the mechanicals are well laid out and there are levels of space around the components that would be a pipe dream when working on a regular vehicle.

    This is as far as I got this afternoon so another update will follow soon.

  10. #30
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    Nice work and very good detail. I'm interested in providing better heat protection within the engine compartment and will be obliged if you could give details of suppliers for the Nimbus product and the insulated conduits.

    Many thanks Geoff

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