My Argento 360

[Mike01606]

Looking at them end on is fine. If you can't see the grooves then turn the engine over with a spanner on the crank pulley until the assembly is in a position for you to do so...if you still can't see them, change the clutch

I climbed under the car with my best reading glasses and a torch.
I could get a steel rule on it and I think it may be outside of spec (which is 8.3mm +/- 0.3mm loaded with a 0.8mm wear limit. I can’t see any of the grooves.

The clutch has approximately 23k miles on it and it was indicating ~30% wear via the TCU.

So I’ve decided to have a closer look and the clutch alignment tool is now ordered and the clutch is coming off tonight for closer inspection.

I did say at the start of the thread I didn’t know how deep I’d go but I’m getting towards the limit of what I want to take on now.

I have questions a plenty about flywheel assessment and SUH ratios....
I’ll just keep at it step by step.

[Mike01606]

I picked up a pile of black and yellow boxes earlier including the F430 gearbox mounting bush.



Again I was given some advice which helped greatly.
I set my torque wrench to 170 Nm to prevent damaging the tool and used anti-seize on the threads.

I smeared a small amount of anti-seize in the casing after checking it was clear of burrs.


I’d put the bush in the freezer in a bag to prevent it getting ice on it but as it was only in for about 20 mins I’d not sure if it helped or not. I used no heat on the casing.

I tapped the bush in square to hold it then attached the tool. The first time it started wonky so I knocked it out.

The second time I checked it was square to the tool and it went straight in once it had self-aligned. It didn’t take much effort at all to wind it in.



I checked it was central with a depth gauge and adjusted as necessary.
Note the alignment with the diamond vertically.



I didn’t order the correct washers and the 360 ones won’t fit so I’ll order those next week.

[Modificato]

Nice work, that is a job that the correct tool makes sense.
The failure scenario is too bad to contemplate.
Like the idea of passing it around.
Sell it to Club Scud and the club can rent it out perhaps with a laminated sheet showing he procedure.
The Bentley drivers club do this with a lot of bespoke to model tools.

[sssdu01]

Or just buy something like this which is cheaper than a "one job " tool. The set I have goes down to small suspension bush size so has managed to do every job I want to do (I am not the seller on e bay !!)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/27Pcs-Pull....c100005.m1851

[achaddy]

Nice work Mike. Much easier with gearbox out obviously. Interesting how you didn’t have to use any heat. I froze my Bush for 24 hrs (in a bag) and applied heat. Had to apply more heat when it was about 3/4 in as it stopped solid.
Mike mentions about using a torque wrench which is important as the shaft will shear if you go too far above the specified torque as I found out with a Bush still in place and not budged even a tiny bit.
Used a similar technique to Mike to remove it in end. But much more awkward when box still in situ. Also when refitting you only have clearance to do about 1/4 turn of the wrench so arm aches quickly with trying to get it in as fast as possible.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Mike01606]

Or just buy something like this which is cheaper than a "one job " tool. The set I have goes down to small suspension bush size so has managed to do every job I want to do (I am not the seller on e bay !!)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/27Pcs-Pull....c100005.m1851

I did actually look at this Simon and discounted it as the sizes aren’t listed and that many people had struggled with the proper tool I didn’t think it would be man enough.

[sssdu01]

I will be trying it out on the 430 soon as need to change all my mounts ......... I also have a secret weapon on the workshop called a lathe so can turn up some adapter collars out of flat plate if the sleeves in the kit arent the optimum sizes.

I have done a few suspension bushes on other cars and the kit has worked very well as long as you put lots of oil on the threads as it can get very stiff

I have also had good results with freezing whatevers going into the hole for a few days, and gently warming the alloy bits they go into. The alloy expansion/steel shrinkage delta is surprising to the point where I have had bearings almost drop into place.

[Modificato]

Or just buy something like this which is cheaper than a "one job " tool. The set I have goes down to small suspension bush size so has managed to do every job I want to do (I am not the seller on e bay !!)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/27Pcs-Pull....c100005.m1851

The issue is the hill / Ferrari tool is not only designed to provide an additional load path for the gearbox casting as the housing is particularly vulnerable. So whilst your secret weapon may help you be careful what you design. My understanding is that the special tool simultaneously withdraws the old part and inserts the new to eliminate a phased stress event leaving residual stresses in the gearbox housing. I for one would never spin that roulette wheel (take one out, then put the new part in) unless I had at least some liquid nitrogen to hand.

The collar design on the Ferrari tool withdraws the old bush into its body simultaneously.

As designers when we need to design special tools for any mechanical job it’s usually for more reasons than that which you can buy off a shelf or for example gain access alone. It’s why my recent engine mount job left this particular task for
Stratstone’s to do when they do my clutch / rear main seal and why my 8C is only serviced at one of the two UK places that bought the factory tools for it.

[Mike01606]

Mod,

Whilst I guess you could do that, that isn’t what I did, nor what it shows on the 430 WSM.
I’ve followed the manuals for everything I’ve done unless it is a very simple obvious task.

The Ferrari bush tool is different to the HE one and has two configurations; REMOV and MONT...
It specifically says remove the old one, check the condition of the housing, grease to facilitate installation, then put the new one in.

Moving on.....Today I’ve been held up a bit and done a couple of those satisfying little jobs...

In a previous maintenance someone had sheared two of the fasteners that hold the actuator heat shield in place.
On the first one they’d drilled a hole for a self tapper which is probably 60% of a proper repair.





I just drilled through the captive bold, tapped a 5mm thread and wound in a flat head bolt form underneath and gave it a spray with zinc.

[sssdu01]

. My understanding is that the special tool simultaneously withdraws the old part and inserts the new to eliminate a phased stress event leaving residual stresses in the gearbox housing. I for one would never spin that roulette wheel (take one out, then put the new part in) unless I had at least some liquid nitrogen to hand.

The collar design on the Ferrari tool withdraws the old bush into its body simultaneously.

As designers when we need to design special tools for any mechanical job it’s usually for more reasons than that which you can buy off a shelf or for example gain access alone. It’s why my recent engine mount job left this particular task for
Stratstone’s to do when they do my clutch / rear main seal and why my 8C is only serviced at one of the two UK places that bought the factory tools for it.

Mod the metal part in the center is wider that the outer steel sleeve so you wont get any tool that will simultaneously push out the old sleeve and install the new one. Yes I am aware that the only parts that are designed to take any load are the outer sleeve of the bush and the machined side section section of the gearbox housing hole. You arent the only engineer on club scud

I would never use liquid nitrogen to freeze a "rubber bush" sleeve as it would freeze the "rubber" to the point where it becomes brittle so more likely to be buggered up during the installation process leaving you with a cracked rubber in your new bush, unless you manage to burn yourself with the liquid nitrogen, or get suffocated by oxygen starvation, as nitrogen expands a lot as it boils off and would quickly purge most of the oxygen out of a garage sized room. Anyone on here thats doing any work on their car is likely to be working in a small garage not an industrial facility !!!

Also for the record if anyone wants to change their engine mounts its a simple spanner job no special tool required at all (one big bolt into the engine and four smaller bolts into the chassis)