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Thread: I think I have a very expensive engine issue with my 360. Any ideas?

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    dave964's Avatar
    dave964 is offline No I'm Spartacus Club Member
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    Default I think I have a very expensive engine issue with my 360. Any ideas?

    I collected the 360 from its annual service today. I then drove it directly to the paint shop (~33 miles) because they are repainting the bumper they did last year (I wasn't happy with the finish).
    About 1 mile from the paint shop, I changed from 3rd to 4th at about 5k rpm. As I let the clutch out and pushed the accelerator down, nothing happened. I assumed I'd missed a gear (although the revs didn't rise, so I clearly didn't) so I put the clutch in again, made sure it was in 4th and put my foot down. Nothing,

    Momentum and an empty country road got me the rest of the way to the paint shop. Car would not rev above idle, and when I was at walking pace, I realised it was not making a nice noise.

    Car is now very very reluctant to start. If it does, it is clearly not running on all cylinders and sounds very bad - almost like a bit of the exhaust is missing. About every few seconds (not regular) there is a banging noise which I think is coming from the left cylinder - a bit like hitting a bit of metal with a hammer.

    I had the OBD reader with me - no codes, except an old error for knock sensor on one bank - it's not current, although it wasn't there when I had the check engine light a month ago (which hasn't come back by the way).

    I know I had normal oil pressure on the journey - I noticed the oil temp was still at zero after 10-15 mins, and was surprised - so watched it after that to make sure it was warming up OK. It did, and oil pressure was fine. Having said that, there seems to be some traces of oil which I've never noticed before - might have been spilled in the service, or might be related :

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    I called the service garage, who currently have no ideas.

    The bumper may as well be sorted since it's at the paint shop, then it will be recovered to the service place again. I am a little torn on this - it may just be bad luck, it may be caused by a mistake at the service - but if it's the latter, I'm trusting them to say so.

    I know it's impossible to diagnose this kind of thing with a vague description but if anybody has any ideas, I'm happy to hear them. I will update the thread when I know more, but I suspect that will be at least a week away - I'm hoping the car will be recovered to the service place mid-week.

    My feeling at the moment, is that this is a mechanical engine fault rather than some sensor issue - hence the lack of codes - and that I am about to have a very painful bill. I'm seeing visions of snapped belts (they were replaced last year), holed pistons etc. etc.

    Let's hope I'm wrong. I'll update when I have more info, but if anybody can say : Oh, mine did that when this 50p part failed - I'm listening!
    Last edited by dave964; 30-03-2019 at 03:25 PM.

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    F355GTS's Avatar
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    Sorry to hear this Dave. I know the 360 had issues with the variators that controlled the variable cam timing, I wonder if it's that? it would mean some engine damage unfortunately

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    Nosevi's Avatar
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    Sorry Dave. Hope itís not as bad as it sounds.

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    Very sorry to hear that Dave.....

    As Mark said the main issue with the 360 motor was variator failure but Iíve only seen one reported on a forum. I guess only the pros know the real incidence rate and if it is common with the upgraded part.
    If the variator has displaced after failure then there will be a lot of oil at the front of the engine.

    I guess there was no smoke so that rules out a simple overfill?

    Was it a belt service or just an annual?

    I hope itís not as bad a your probably fearing......M

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    Default I think I have a very expensive engine issue with my 360. Any ideas?

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike01606 View Post
    Very sorry to hear that Dave.....

    As Mark said the main issue with the 360 motor was variator failure but Iíve only seen one reported on a forum. I guess only the pros know the real incidence rate and if it is common with the upgraded part.
    If the variator has displaced after failure then there will be a lot of oil at the front of the engine.

    I guess there was no smoke so that rules out a simple overfill?

    Was it a belt service or just an annual?

    I hope itís not as bad a your probably fearing......M
    I really should re-read the post before asking questions.

    Belts last year so to unlikely to be related to belt/cam timing unless a total coincidence.

    That oil under the separator is more than likely related to a spill when pouring 10 litres in directly above. Itís probably been blown along the gearbox and out of the vent also.

    My comments on variators were general and itís unlikely yours has failed.

    Problem started once it got hot.... Iíd want to know if itíd been overfilled with oil and the MAFs are contaminated before looking any further. Especially if a load of oilís been spilled and not cleaned up.

    The lack of CEL? Donít know.

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    dave964's Avatar
    dave964 is offline No I'm Spartacus Club Member
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    Well, something like MAFs would be nice!

    But the noise it was making didn't sound great. I hope I'm wrong, and it's not something mechanical but it did sound like it was. Fingers crossed

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    Fingers crossed. Mine is currently in for belts. I do get a little concerned at this time as my old Alfa Spider had a variator failure after a belt, variator change and head reskim/gasket a few years back.

    However they were a none independent garage and I should have known better. Last year I gave up with it after a noise from the top of then engine. I never did find out what it was. It did run fine apart from the noise.


    Good luck.

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    Obviously it's very difficult to make any sort of diagnosis over the internet and you should be talking to the servicing garage as they may have inadvertently caused this. 9/10 times it's something trivial, however if you suspect internal engine damage then don't run the engine. If you can save the crank and rods (and providing that the valve guides are OK) then a rebuild really isn't that expensive. Once you start needing to buy big ticket items then the cost really stacks up.

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    Planning to call the bodyshop this afternoon - regardless of whether they've completed the bumper, I want to try and get it moved tomorrow.

    One (possibly) significant point that I forgot to mention in the original post : I had no brake assistance at the pedal.

    I think that when I first found I had no power, I still did. However, as I was getting to the paint shop and it wouldn't run above a very rough idle (probably only on the driver side bank), I found that the brake pedal was rock hard and I essentially had no braking.

    So it seems that the vacuum to the brake system wasn't there. Where does this come from, and does the lack of vacuum give a clue to the running problems?

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    Vacuum is fed from the plenum or inlet manifold so it's possible if one bank was down that it would cause this

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