Cheers Phil. Let me know if you need dimensions and I'll try to get them this week (currently in Tuscany with the car).
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F430 New owner diary inc. maintenance & upgrades
- Thread starter MWStewart
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Cheers Phil. Let me know if you need dimensions and I'll try to get them this week (currently in Tuscany with the car).
Phil Taylor
New member
Prancing horse
Exact dimensions would be very useful when you get the chance. Thanks
Exact dimensions would be very useful when you get the chance. Thanks
alfazagato
New member
journey home
Mark, I hope that you don't need this info, but I noticed that your return journey passed through Clement Ferrand. There is an amazing Ferrari guy there called Phillipe Gardette, Auvergne Motors ex Pozzi, Paris. Really nice man who I first met after racing at Mas de Clos in my Boxer in '82.....clutch cable broke as I arrived in CF and he not only put it right almost immediately but sent his mother to show us round the district and have a substantial lunch.
Mark, I hope that you don't need this info, but I noticed that your return journey passed through Clement Ferrand. There is an amazing Ferrari guy there called Phillipe Gardette, Auvergne Motors ex Pozzi, Paris. Really nice man who I first met after racing at Mas de Clos in my Boxer in '82.....clutch cable broke as I arrived in CF and he not only put it right almost immediately but sent his mother to show us round the district and have a substantial lunch.
40mm x 25mm at its widest parts.
Thanks Stuart, much apprecaited. We're actually just back and in the end took the Route Napolean and a few Péages to Dijon, rather than the original route further east.
I will remember the tip for next time.
Cheers.
Thursday 21st May
The good weather is upon us and I have run out of time for the preventative clutch replacement operation; I actually contacted a couple of mobile mechanics but nothing came of that, so I've put the car back together for summer use. Looking through the inspection window in the transaction shows a bit of life left in the clutch, so it should do for the rest of this year at least, then I can tackle it next winter.
I effected a minor repair on the cat heat shields where water had gathered around the factory rivets and corroded the shield thus allowing the rivets to pull through. I repaired using much larger stainless rivets.
I found one of the nylon vacuum lines was routed in a way that meant it was crushed upon installation of the lower airbox. I moved it out of the way when refitting.
Tailpipe Restoration
The four remaining studs in the rear tailpipe sections snapped last year when I removed the silencer. I attempted to drill them out in situ this week but it was game over as soon as the bit reached the lower section which is welded them to the flange; the metal has become too hard from welding to easily drill out. In view of this I opted to remove the tailpipe sections and use an angle grinder to cut off the welds (green arrows), and then for reassembly I will use stainless bolts rather than steel studs. My car came with Capristo brackets fitted so the other two studs were already removed (if they were ever fitted at all - I don't know).
I decided to restore anything on the parts I had removed to make future maintenance easier. The AccuSeal clamps fitted at the factory are advertised as being stainless steel but really it is just the clamp section itself - the fastening hardware is steel and hence a recipe for disaster.
I replaced the AccuSeal clamps with 100% stainless Mikalor clamps. The smaller two are 47-51mm.
The larger are 63-68mm - the originals have to be cut off with a grinder as they are tacked to the exhaust. The Mikalor clamps don't cover the slits but this isn't an issue as there is 25mm of sealing surface behind them.
The exhaust valve actuators are also stainless steel but come fitted with copper plated lock nuts which also corrode heavily. I replaced them with stainless nuts and stainless shake-proof washers.
I refreshed the stainless exhaust tips with 80 grit wet and dry paper. I am careful to use the paper horizontally to each the tip in order to create a brushed effect.
Refitting the exhaust is a doddle and the rear bumper can stay on; I place a rag in the exhaust wells to protect the body and then pivot the exhaust around the 90 degree bend before the tips and it slides in without touching any of the bodywork. I used fairly liquid on the joints to make the whole thing easier to assemble. It only takes five minutes to adjust as the rear silencer ties everything together leaving only a little bit of adjustment via the joins behind the cats.
A shot from underneath showing the new hardware and Capristo brackets.
The good weather is upon us and I have run out of time for the preventative clutch replacement operation; I actually contacted a couple of mobile mechanics but nothing came of that, so I've put the car back together for summer use. Looking through the inspection window in the transaction shows a bit of life left in the clutch, so it should do for the rest of this year at least, then I can tackle it next winter.
I effected a minor repair on the cat heat shields where water had gathered around the factory rivets and corroded the shield thus allowing the rivets to pull through. I repaired using much larger stainless rivets.
I found one of the nylon vacuum lines was routed in a way that meant it was crushed upon installation of the lower airbox. I moved it out of the way when refitting.
Tailpipe Restoration
The four remaining studs in the rear tailpipe sections snapped last year when I removed the silencer. I attempted to drill them out in situ this week but it was game over as soon as the bit reached the lower section which is welded them to the flange; the metal has become too hard from welding to easily drill out. In view of this I opted to remove the tailpipe sections and use an angle grinder to cut off the welds (green arrows), and then for reassembly I will use stainless bolts rather than steel studs. My car came with Capristo brackets fitted so the other two studs were already removed (if they were ever fitted at all - I don't know).
I decided to restore anything on the parts I had removed to make future maintenance easier. The AccuSeal clamps fitted at the factory are advertised as being stainless steel but really it is just the clamp section itself - the fastening hardware is steel and hence a recipe for disaster.
I replaced the AccuSeal clamps with 100% stainless Mikalor clamps. The smaller two are 47-51mm.
The larger are 63-68mm - the originals have to be cut off with a grinder as they are tacked to the exhaust. The Mikalor clamps don't cover the slits but this isn't an issue as there is 25mm of sealing surface behind them.
The exhaust valve actuators are also stainless steel but come fitted with copper plated lock nuts which also corrode heavily. I replaced them with stainless nuts and stainless shake-proof washers.
I refreshed the stainless exhaust tips with 80 grit wet and dry paper. I am careful to use the paper horizontally to each the tip in order to create a brushed effect.
Refitting the exhaust is a doddle and the rear bumper can stay on; I place a rag in the exhaust wells to protect the body and then pivot the exhaust around the 90 degree bend before the tips and it slides in without touching any of the bodywork. I used fairly liquid on the joints to make the whole thing easier to assemble. It only takes five minutes to adjust as the rear silencer ties everything together leaving only a little bit of adjustment via the joins behind the cats.
A shot from underneath showing the new hardware and Capristo brackets.
sssdu01
Active member
Top job first time I have seen Fairy Liquid and a hammer in the same shot :grin:
Thanks
Thursday 21st May
Today I fitted the Hill Engineering front track rod ends. A quick sanity check revealed these are shorter than the OEM version so this must be taken into account when refitting to ensure the tracking isn't too wildly out for the drive to get the car realigned.
Next it was stripe time. I've gone for a 16M inspired stripe in silver.
Fitting the stripe was quite nerve wracking, especially when down to the final section! I used soapy water to allow for repositioning on the car and a hard squeegee to move all of the water from underneath the decal once it was in a position I was happy with. My Dad helped by finding the centreline of the car and marking it up on pieces of tape.
The stripe ties in with the new handles and also the wheels. I am really pleased with it.
I was particularly pleased with the front badge recess which was all cut out off of the car. The OEM painted stripe fills the recess and I managed to achieve that look with the vinyl.
Excuse the dusty car!
Modificato
Active member
Nice work.
I am going for a 'challenge omaggio' look with my car something that sits clearly and uniquely between a base car and a scud.
Do you have any overall vision driving your mods or is it an evolving strategy?
Just curious
I am going for a 'challenge omaggio' look with my car something that sits clearly and uniquely between a base car and a scud.
Do you have any overall vision driving your mods or is it an evolving strategy?
Just curious
Thank you. I have a bit of a list - some of it will happen sooner than others!
Cosmetic:
16M/Scud front bumper,
Carbon 16M/Scud skirts,
Challenge rear grille (I don't like the full 16M/Scud rear end!),
Carbon rear diffuser,
Carbon engine bay grilles,
16M engine bay lid,
Hood retrimmed in red and a Tricolore stripe (to go on together),
Steering wheel retrim in red and black,
16M/Scud seats,
Scud cluster.
Suspension:
16M/Scud flamblocks,
16M/Scud front and rear ARB's,
Brakes:
16M/Scud CCMs
Engine:
Replace my manifolds with Supersprint stepped,
DMS remap
Dream upgrades (i.e. unlikely to happen)
458 crank and 2mm overbore,
16M/Scud cams,
16M/Scud MAFs
Modificato
Active member
LOL too many similarities.
I am going to do the scud suspension bushes and hills engineering upgrades next I think
I am going to do the scud suspension bushes and hills engineering upgrades next I think
That's a winter job for me, too. I came across http://www.clubscuderia.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?35481-Exactly-why-CS-handles-better-than-360
Based on the above I will rebuild my flamblocs with the Enger Suspension inserts - it's £200 for the whole car. Bargain.
Wednesday 24th June
Hill Engineering TREs, Cont...
I found when replacing the N/S track rod end that the 'balance spacer' was slightly knurled around its edge, so I decided to replace it. Worth noting when re-inserting them that the split in the spacer should be aliogned with a smooth portion of the securing bolt bore.
O/S/F Hill Engineering TRE fitted.
Clear Repeaters and LED Bulbs
Next I wanted to replace the amber side repeaters with clear, as the amber doesn't look great against Grigio Silverstone. The first links I came to was a very useful article from Voicey's blog: http://aldousvoice.com/2013/11/15/ferrari-360f430-clear-side-repeaters/
Here are the new repeaters and 5 SMB LED replacement bulbs.
Fitted.
Titainium Look Inner Door Handles
The Titainium accessory handles are also available for the inner door handles. I set out to replicate them. The standard handle is soft feel black paint:
I flatted the handle and sprayed the underside in a matte silver.
I wrapped the top in 3M Di-noc brushed finished wrap.
Fitted. It looks much better.
Hill Engineering TREs, Cont...
I found when replacing the N/S track rod end that the 'balance spacer' was slightly knurled around its edge, so I decided to replace it. Worth noting when re-inserting them that the split in the spacer should be aliogned with a smooth portion of the securing bolt bore.
O/S/F Hill Engineering TRE fitted.
Clear Repeaters and LED Bulbs
Next I wanted to replace the amber side repeaters with clear, as the amber doesn't look great against Grigio Silverstone. The first links I came to was a very useful article from Voicey's blog: http://aldousvoice.com/2013/11/15/ferrari-360f430-clear-side-repeaters/
Here are the new repeaters and 5 SMB LED replacement bulbs.
Fitted.
Titainium Look Inner Door Handles
The Titainium accessory handles are also available for the inner door handles. I set out to replicate them. The standard handle is soft feel black paint:
I flatted the handle and sprayed the underside in a matte silver.
I wrapped the top in 3M Di-noc brushed finished wrap.
Fitted. It looks much better.
sssdu01
Active member
You might like to check these out before you buy as I don't think these will fit. I have a vague memory that 360trev tried and found they don't fit.
You might like to check these out before you buy as I don't think these will fit. I have a vague memory that 360trev tried and found they don't fit.
Argh, thank you. In that case I may well end up buying the PU and machining them myself.
Friday 26th June
I decided to bite the bullet and get the clutch changed. Off she goes!
The clutch will be a new OEM part and the release beaing a Hill Engineering uprated part with seals.
The Crankshaft Rear Spigot Bearing and oil seal behind the clutch release bearing shaft will be changed too. Total cost including vat is £2595.64, which seemed pretty good.
I think I've now tackled the major weak points - peace of mind for the upcoming road trip.
I decided to bite the bullet and get the clutch changed. Off she goes!
The clutch will be a new OEM part and the release beaing a Hill Engineering uprated part with seals.
The Crankshaft Rear Spigot Bearing and oil seal behind the clutch release bearing shaft will be changed too. Total cost including vat is £2595.64, which seemed pretty good.
I think I've now tackled the major weak points - peace of mind for the upcoming road trip.
sssdu01
Active member
Bet you cant fix the fuel gage problem ........... its just reads empty real quick :cry3:
On a serious note, if the gearbox is coming out get the gearbox mountings changed. It wont be much labour with the box out as the top one is a press fit steel sleeve with a rubber bush inside.
Last edited:
Modificato
Active member
Really need to find a good way of getting the flamblocs like scud / challenge stradale spec. With the stock springs and dampers it should have nice detail and precision without a bone crunching ride. My carbon seats already forgo a level of compliance for being held tighter and a track feel.
Modificato
Active member
Okay thanks for the piggy back again.
Latest Mod was to upgrade the view from the wheel.
My car has a full carbon driving zone but like many 430's had and aluminium steering wheel and paddles which I liked when new but compared to other cars in my collection has now started to look really dated. Also I didn't like the stock paddles as they are quite often just out of reach typically when changing up as you unwind the lock on full power from a tight corner, this gets especially annoying on mountain passes. So we de-mounted the wheel and airbag, and covered it with precision cut carbon sheet in 1X1 mesh and wrapped it around the back of the wheel. We thought about matt - for anti glare - and tried 2X2 weave but this contrasts nicely with the other OEM items in the cabin. Don't know why? it just works. We also acquired some second hand carbon shift paddles from a challenge car. The extra length is perfect and now the distance from the wheel is spot on so they don't interfere with the operation of the stalks either. Had lovely long sporting drive today and cannot believe the difference it makes knowing the paddle is always there.
Next up is some detail from the install of the Forza Exhaust controller. I believe pictures of these have been posted before so just for info mine is the later metal cased version which is a very well engineered kit with everything you need and now nicely robust enough to operate in the heat and environment of the F430 engine bay. I didn't like the fiddly key ring operation switches and wanted an OEM look for the install. We searched for ages to find an aperture in the bulkhead to ensure no drilling was required and we ended up fabricating a carbon mounted three-way switch that sits where the ashtray was. I think it looks real good in carbon sheet to match the wheel and it is now very intuitive to operate on the move without taking your eyes off the road.
Middle position is the default factory operation, forward is valves always open and back through factory to the third position is valves always closed (useful for track day noise tests and early morning don't walk the neighbours days)
Finally - I realise pictures of the Capristo brackets have been posted before and the normal pics are of the big contrast between cold and hot engines.
Here I decided to start the car rev it up a bit move the car a little then let it sit at idle for a couple on minutes then shut it down. I had a hunch that these 'half heat cycles' were probably responsible for failed headers on lightly used cars. Mine is one the second set of headers (aka Mk2 headers) but had destroyed three mounting brackets. Looking at the Capristo brackets I can now see why.
What I was shocked to see was just how much expansion had taken place in this test which must be typical of many owners as they move there car say to clean it periodically. On closer inspection the brackets had also induced a bit of twist and with a bit of attempted manhandling it was clear that even with the springs tightened up to spec the fore and aft movement needs to be easier still. Having seen it now hot cold and medium I have decided will now apply some high temp 'copper slip' to the slotted plates above and below to allow the spring cup washers to move more easily across the bracket.
Right Hand side
Left Hand side
Hope this helps other owners and provides interest
Next up more carbon for the exterior
Latest Mod was to upgrade the view from the wheel.
My car has a full carbon driving zone but like many 430's had and aluminium steering wheel and paddles which I liked when new but compared to other cars in my collection has now started to look really dated. Also I didn't like the stock paddles as they are quite often just out of reach typically when changing up as you unwind the lock on full power from a tight corner, this gets especially annoying on mountain passes. So we de-mounted the wheel and airbag, and covered it with precision cut carbon sheet in 1X1 mesh and wrapped it around the back of the wheel. We thought about matt - for anti glare - and tried 2X2 weave but this contrasts nicely with the other OEM items in the cabin. Don't know why? it just works. We also acquired some second hand carbon shift paddles from a challenge car. The extra length is perfect and now the distance from the wheel is spot on so they don't interfere with the operation of the stalks either. Had lovely long sporting drive today and cannot believe the difference it makes knowing the paddle is always there.
Next up is some detail from the install of the Forza Exhaust controller. I believe pictures of these have been posted before so just for info mine is the later metal cased version which is a very well engineered kit with everything you need and now nicely robust enough to operate in the heat and environment of the F430 engine bay. I didn't like the fiddly key ring operation switches and wanted an OEM look for the install. We searched for ages to find an aperture in the bulkhead to ensure no drilling was required and we ended up fabricating a carbon mounted three-way switch that sits where the ashtray was. I think it looks real good in carbon sheet to match the wheel and it is now very intuitive to operate on the move without taking your eyes off the road.
Middle position is the default factory operation, forward is valves always open and back through factory to the third position is valves always closed (useful for track day noise tests and early morning don't walk the neighbours days)
Finally - I realise pictures of the Capristo brackets have been posted before and the normal pics are of the big contrast between cold and hot engines.
Here I decided to start the car rev it up a bit move the car a little then let it sit at idle for a couple on minutes then shut it down. I had a hunch that these 'half heat cycles' were probably responsible for failed headers on lightly used cars. Mine is one the second set of headers (aka Mk2 headers) but had destroyed three mounting brackets. Looking at the Capristo brackets I can now see why.
What I was shocked to see was just how much expansion had taken place in this test which must be typical of many owners as they move there car say to clean it periodically. On closer inspection the brackets had also induced a bit of twist and with a bit of attempted manhandling it was clear that even with the springs tightened up to spec the fore and aft movement needs to be easier still. Having seen it now hot cold and medium I have decided will now apply some high temp 'copper slip' to the slotted plates above and below to allow the spring cup washers to move more easily across the bracket.
Right Hand side
Left Hand side
Hope this helps other owners and provides interest
Next up more carbon for the exterior
swnyradar
Member
Hi, where did you get this 'spec'? I find that I have a chattering around 3000rpm with my brackets fitted and am going to adjust to see if I can eliminate this - there were no torque figures provided when I purchased the brackets.