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Thread: 348 DIY "Restoration"

  1. #2311
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    In the past I've tried to either file/sand the paint off or hand paint the script but never ever been happy with it so this time I thought I would try a different approach. What I did was put some strips of masking tape over the lettering then pressed the tape down into the gas then sanded the tape off. I then put a plastic bag round the caliper and then taped it up so just the script was showing.

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    This was just before painting. As you can see if you just sand the letters without painting the finish is a bit inconsistent.

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    After first coat

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    After 2nd coat...

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    After removal of the bag

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    Starting to remove the masking tape - a nervous moment!!!!

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    After the main tape was removed I used a pin to pick out the bits that didn't come away with the main tape.

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    Voila - all done and looking pretty neat - this is a closeup so not that flattering

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    But from more than a few inches away looks perfect. Only problem now is that I have re-do the other 3! :-(

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  2. #2312
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    Looks good, Jeff

  3. #2313
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    Very creative Jeff, excellent results

    I have some spare calipers so may try your technique.
    Last edited by Terry; 26-01-2020 at 10:23 AM.

  4. #2314
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    It works really well Terry - the photos don't do it justice at all - looks pretty much perfect in real life :-)

    Just to recap....

    Caliper was sprayed with red K2 caliper paint (off eBay) then left for about a week to really harden off.

    I then rubbed down the lettering area with a lollipop stick wrapped with wet and dry to remove most of the red paint.

    Then applied the blue 3M tape across all the lettering and lines trying to make the overlap as little as possible. Really press it down hard with your fingers into the gaps etc so it will be hidden from the sanding action. I also taped off the area around it in case your sanding paper catches the caliper and scratches it.

    Then just sanded with the lollipop stick again with a reasonable aggressive grade til just the letters showed (as in above photos). Any nicks in the masking tape just cut out a very small piece of tape and apply it as a patch then manipulate it with a knife or finger nail to push it into the crevices.

    It was then sprayed with silver K2 caliper paint - just a couple of light coats.

  5. #2315
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    Just thought I'd mention another technique that I tried last night on a scrap caliper....

    This involves applying some PVA release agent that you normally use when making fiberglass parts from molds. You just brush/spray on and it sets as a film that can be peeled/washed away after. This is the stuff:

    https://www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co....-release-agent


    So I'm using my old RHS caliper that I replaced with a new one a few years back hence the scruffy condition. Should of painted it red beforehand but I'm just testing the technique so there you go.

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    Using the PVA release agent I brushed on quite a generous coating BTW its coloured blue so you can see where it's been applied.

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    Just to speed things up I used a hair dryer to accelerate the drying time so here's it all dry and ready.

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    I then used a lollipop stick wrapped in wet and dry again to sand away the pva from the letters, lines and arrow.

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    A few shots once the coating has been sanded off. Nice thing about this method is if you missed a bit you could always dab a bit more on and just sand that bit again so in this respect I prefer this method.

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    The rest of the caliper was taped off - just used masking tape this time as it was only a half of caliper (more about that later).

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    Once dry - should be left overnight but I was impatient! - it can be washed off using water and a toothbrush ideally (so you can get in the nooks and crannys) just leaving the lettering.

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    Here's the 2 calipers together - masking tape methods on top, lower one was done with pva. The masking tape one just has the edge although the fact the caliper is scruffy might be clouding my judgement so may try it again as I was a bit impatient waiting for things to dry etc.

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    Just a reminder of the masking tape method. Certainly beats hand painting which is what I've been trying to do in the past :-(

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  6. #2316
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    Looks superb Jeff.

  7. #2317
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    +1 Jeff, great job as always

  8. #2318
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    Well it's been quite some time since my last update! Plus the last 2 years pics have all disappeared from the thread since the server move! :-(

    Anyway, finally got round to doing my fuel filters after a few sleepless nights imaging Ill go up in a ball of flames if I don't get it right! LOL

    First thing first is the easy part - shopping for bits! :-)

    I checked out the diagram on eurospares and decided to not just replace the filters and copper crush washers but the unions too.

    The top unions were extortionately expensive atover £26 each!!!! you can get them for 1/2 that from eurospares if you don't mind waiting but I wanted to get it next day for when I had a couple of days of work. The bottom unions are only about £5 each which is more like it but are NLA - typical! So in the end I bought everything from Maranello with next day delivery.

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    Alrrady had the filters in the garage but never got round to fitting.

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    Crush washers and unions from Maranello - about £50 all in :-( My reasoning is its to do with fuel so its cheaper than a new car!

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    Had a bit of a tidy up but doing this and moved the car into the middle for easy access. Not included pics but you have to remove the wheels and the biggest of the inner wheel arches for easy access (mine were already off)

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    Read a few times that you should release the fuel tank door to relieve pressure - not entirely convinces TBF but nothing to lose by doing so.

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    Both fuel pipe hoses are 17mm and just to make things easier I used a 17mm flared brake spanner to get a better grip as they can be very tight. Note the actual unions themselves with the top one being 17mm and the bottom 19m.

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    These are the 2 17mm connections you want to loosen off. They both loosen by turning the hose side connection in an anticlockwise direction whilst holding the union attached to the filter stil. Lot of confusion about this on fchat but everything is as normal ie anticlock to loosen whether op or bottom and that applies to hoses and the actual union itself.

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    Here's the top hose (not union - that stays on until removed from car) being loosened off. Hold the union/filter still with a 17mm open ended spanner and use the flared 17mm spanner to "crack it off" by turning it anti-clockwise - be warned they can be very tight!!! Once cracked off a bit they can be loosened by hand.

    Don't forget your trying to loosen the hose NOT the union - the hose coupling sins freely from the actual hose - they are not one piece.

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    NB Pic is actually from RHS as trhe one for the LHS was a bit unclear
    Last edited by irarref; 21-06-2020 at 09:06 AM.

  9. #2319
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    A348W is offline Rear lights like a farm gate - The Ferrari 348 Club Member
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    Good to see you back at it!

    Iíve got a small bag of goodies due for delivery tomorrow

    Interesting what you paid for the fuel filters. Mine were done a few months ago as part of my major and were a stupid price (my fault as a didnít ask). I had a bit of a moan to the dealer about it. Not the dealers fault, they were just passing on the cost. I get that you will always pay some sort of premium for a yellow box with black horses; but I wonder if the moan was passed on?

  10. #2320
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    Ha ha they'll get you one way or another! I find the small the package delivered the more expensive it is!!! :-(


    I forgot to mention...before you do any of this don't forget to put a blanket/sheet down under the filter to mop up any filters. I used an old sheet. (obviously dont do this if you smoke in bed)

    so keep undoing the top/hose connection until it is loose enough whereby you can move it with your fingers. I also put some blue roll around fitting to soak up any fuel that might come out.

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    A thin painters tray makes a good catch for when you disconnect the hose entirely and angle it just slightly down to let any fuel in the pipe pour out.

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    This how much I got out of the pipe - not a lot really considering all the horror stories of fuel spraying everywhere.

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    I put a cable tie around one of the radiator hoses so I could pop the end of hose in it to keep it out of the way and to stop fuel draining out.

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    Once it's hooked over I just pulled it a little tighter so it wont slip out.

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    Next the bottom hose - this still requires the 17mm flared spanner but this time the union has a 19 rather than 17mm hex on it.

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    Access at the underneath is nigh on impossible and it's very cramped against the manifold then it dawned on me why not disconnect the mount and move it somewhere else - doh!


    Using a 13mm socket with a flexible joint I just undid the nut where it is helpd to the frame of the car. Just note that it's easier if the ratchet is the other side of the bar shown in pic.

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    You can use a ratchet spanner - just showing pic from the RHS so you can see the options.

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    Once it's free and a suitable container underneath just slowly turn the filter upside down and drain out the rest of the fuel.

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    And this is how much fuel I got out - not very much and I didn't spill any. All in I reckon I lost about a couple of thimble fulls of fuel doing it like this.

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    One thing I will mention is that I did this in the garage and I had both the side door and main garage door open with a breeze as it can be a little fumey plus a fire extinguisher near by and ready - most probably being paranoid but best to make sure.

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