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Thread: 348 DIY "Restoration"

  1. #2651
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    irarref is offline Kid's bed - The Ferrari F50 Club Member
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    After the hydrate 80 rust converter had well and truly dried I applied a couple of coats of zinc heavy anti rust primer. I did actually but the Bilt Hamber Electrolux one quite a long time ago but when I came to spray it it didn't work - DOH! Hopefully this generic one is just as good.

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    After 2nd coat it started to give decent coverage.

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    This is the logic behind it - notice that it says zinc primer "dramatically increases" the life so there you go.

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    Last edited by irarref; 28-11-2021 at 10:27 PM.

  2. #2652
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    Finally my Bilt Hamber order arrived that consisted of some Deox C rust remover, Epoxy Mastic 2 part paint, the hardener and thinner.

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    Also in the post is one of my orders from Superperformance. Trying to replace all my hardware with new where available and price is reasonable - eg. not prepared to pay over 26 for one small washer!!!!!

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    Also in the post (what a fun day) was some more POR15 metal prep from Frost restoration.

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    Now I normally used Por15 paint for painting over treated rusty areas but it is a bit of a nightmare to use. Once the can is open unless you use it all up in one go you're more than likely to find that come back a few months later and the can has sealed itself shut or the contents have gone rock hard. So this in mind I decided to try the Bilt Hamber equivalent which has teh added advantage of being a 2 part epoxy with an alleged good shelf life. Obviously early days yet but opening the tin a couple of days later after 1st use was no problem so I think I prefer it. Nice touch on the tin it has a locking seal to keep it tight shut.

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    The ratio of paint to hardener is 4 to 1 and you get a small cup to mix it. TBH although it looks small it covers quite an area so big enough. Don't know whether it was due to the cold but next day the paint was still not quite hard - sort of dry but if you were to try and dent it with your fingernail it would so for the 2nd coat I added a little bit more hardener which did the trick.

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    Gave a good coat to the chassis where the lower arm bolts on.

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    The end of the ARB

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    The inside of the frunk where the front lower arm bolt comes through/rubber bung goes.

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    And underneath too.

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    Last edited by irarref; 28-11-2021 at 10:56 PM.

  3. #2653
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    Despite all my best efforts...heating, hammering, twisting etc. I still cant that long bolt out of the lower arm in order to release the stabilser link :-(

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    So its hacksaw time! LOL

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    Even the washer which is a separate part wont come off - do not know what's gone on there - super stubborn!

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    Thankfully Nick had sent me his spare long bolts so now that the link is off I did a quick check/dummy reassembly

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    Link was looking a bit grim so gave it a clean up with a wire brush

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    And then a coat of Halfords Wheel Silver which gives a very good aluminum look (IMO anyway)

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    Bought all new rubber bushes plus an inner sleeve - bit pricey but I'm in deep now! IIRC they were about 8 each so over 30 to do :-(

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    Ready to refit :-)

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  4. #2654
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    Now that the epoxy has gone rock hard I gave teh whole area a coat of truck bed liner so it all has an even appearance.

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    After it had dried a bit and the masking tape removed

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    Next job was to reinstall the upper arm but with having nice fresh bushes in it no longer fitted :-(

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    At first I thought it would be an easy job to just make a simple expander tool out of bar and 2 nuts and wind them out to compress the bushes but the nuts foul on the brackets so this was a no go (yellow arrows point to the clash points).

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    So after a bit of head scratching I cut myself 2 small collars from the pipe I bought to do the arm bushes so I could get the nuts out of the way of the protruding brackets. This was Mk1, in Mk2 I replaced the collar on the right and added some washers!

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    And this is what finally worked. The loose collars move the nuts out of the way of the brackets so you can tighten them up and compress the bushes. You cant push the bushes very far in as the bar then fouls, however its enough to just get the edges in enough so it will stay in place when you loosen off the bar. You can then use a rubber mallet to knock the arm in fully so you can put a bolt through.

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    And here it is in place. I've recycled my bolts for the time being but I have new ones on order - back order - 10 - 14 days from Italy :-(

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  5. #2655
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    All the spacing shims (the ones that look like pacman) where measured as a whole for each side and also individually so I could put them back on the right fork.

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    Once measured they were cleaned, striped and repainted with a anti rust zinc primer plus a coat of Hammerrite smooth spray. I did look into getting all the bolts etc. plated but they said it would take about a month!!! Seems very few companies are interested in small batches of stuff and they seem to just fit it in around commercial work. I've ended up buying new hardware where I can as there isn't too much difference in price.

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    I also bought a set of new shims from superperformce as was just going to use new but in the end I did reuse my old ones. I made them up into a pack of teh right size then put a thin piece of sellotape round them just to keep them together and finally labelled them (F)ront and (R)ear.

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    Although I have 4 new bolts on order (with a 10 to 14 day delay) I needed to press on. The top 2 bolts were in perfect condition so decided to swap the top good bolts for the bottom rusty ones. The bottom ones cant be changed out once in the pockets in the chassis whereas the top ones can be replaced in situ so Ill just do the tops when the order arrives. I just cleaned the exposed head with a wire brush and applied a coat of Hammerite to protect them.

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    Plenty of copperease just to prevent the corrosion

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    As mentioned you have to put the bolts through the brackets before attaching the brackets to the chassis so I tightened them as much as I could but so they could still slide about. These mustn't be tightened properly until the car is under load so the rubber isn't flexed when resting.

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    Ready to go back on with the shims in place.

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  6. #2656
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    As an ongoing background task I've been derusting and refurbing both the brake disc and shock absorber.

    Both were dipped in a derusting solution then allowed to soak in a por-15 metal prep which coats them in an zinc coating.

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    The brake disc was then sprayed with a zin rich weld through primer (which shouldn't be affected by heat) then a couple of coats of silver caliper paint (K2). Spraying just the caliper paint seems to allow rust through after a few montsh whereas the zinc primer first seems to suppress that (based on my other car which is outside all the time).

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    Shock absorber underwent the same treatment but taking great care to only strip the main body and nothing near the actual piston etc.

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    Zinc antirust primer

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    And Hammerite smooth gold on the body and the perches with black satin.

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  7. #2657
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    Great job. That rust remover is certainly effective!

  8. #2658
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    It certainly is - I use it on everything now and it works a treat :-)

  9. #2659
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    Quick dry build to make sure I have everything I need.

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    Once again generous amounts of Copperease! LOL

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    I was worried about how easy it would be to get the brackets back in the frame now that it was rebushed but I needn't have worried. Bit of wiggling and a few taps from a mallet to help but it went in pretty easily. Once the brackets are through there is a small washer to go on before teh lock nut.


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    I just used a socket by hand first to put the new 22mm nut back on followed by using a ratchet.

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    And there you go in place - notice how you cant put the bolts in after fitting the brackets so don't ty and just fit the brackets expecting to put the arm in afterwards!

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    Bad picture of the rear bracket/nut! LOL

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    Front bracket/nut. Unfortunately I couldn't find the torque settings in the workshop manual so have done it by feel/experience. Needless to say it is tight!

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    I'm replacing both the ball joints with new. To prevent the inevitable surface rust I gently cleaned the thin oil layer and sprayed them with a couple of light coats of the wheel silver. Would be a shame for them to rust when they are actually new.

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    Same again for the top ball joint

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  10. #2660
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    Made a video of the bush install - pretty sure you can skip the first 5 minutes whilst I'm doing it wrong LOL


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sk9DJAs-6xA



    First thing I did was lay everything out in order and double check the diagram to make sure I don't miss anything.

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    Since the spring is freshy powder coated I add a bit of tape to stop scratches then used some spring compressors to shorten the sprig enough s I could get the nut on the top of the damper.

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    Checked against the other side to see how far the nut goes on.

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    And made it match on this side although looking at the pic I think I need it to go round just a smidge more to match the yellow match markes.

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