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Thread: Long term storage

  1. #11
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    Nosevi is offline Post whore with no life, no friends, and a problem fitting into normal social circles Super Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by mon the fish View Post
    It's ok, I'll use mine in the rain and yours in the dry
    She'll need running more than twice a year........

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    Pete, you know what I do for a living. You need to run it up to temp and get everything working at least every few months. Fuel goes off, you will get dry seals and verdigris on electrics, regardless of storage conditions. Though your choice on what you do.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gavc View Post
    Pete, you know what I do for a living. You need to run it up to temp and get everything working at least every few months. Fuel goes off, you will get dry seals and verdigris on electrics, regardless of storage conditions. Though your choice on what you do.
    Thanks Gav, appreciate your input. Haven't seen you in an age - how about I pop over sometime and we can discuss options. Still haven't seen your Porker either. Will drop you a bell offline

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    sssdu01 is offline No I'm Spartacus Committee Member
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    Pete I have some aircraft experience and some vintage stuff tends to have little or no use over the winter. This always causes problems with the fuel systems, as Ethernol will absorb water, and it can react with fuel pipes, fiberglass fuel tanks etc if left stationary for a long time. This can result in a gloopy gunk forming in carburetor bowls and filters. I have seen an aircraft that would fire but not run when trying to start it up, and when I took off the carburetor bowl it was full of the gloopy gunk so we had to flush out the entire fuel system and replace all the fuel pipes.

    My aircraft engineer told me the ethernol is a breeding ground for some sort or weird microbes that produce acetic acid - which will want to corrode the fuel system. Also if the ethernol water absorption exceeds a critical level, the fuel separates into an alcohol rich water level which will either stop the engine from running of bugger it up. Modern injected engines will normally run as the fuel injection system has a return pipe so the crap in the system will sink to the bottom of the tank and be sucked up by the pump and returned back to the fuel tank, thereby "mixing up" the contamination with the petrol. However your car might run bad and give you a nasty orange warning light advising your engine is about to die

    Its getting more difficult to get E0 fuel with no Ethernol so if an aircraft is going to be stored we drain the fuel system, and replace any flexible fuel pipes when the plane is recommissioned. With a car going into long term storage I would be inclined to either fill the car with Ethernol free fuel or drain the fuel system.

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    Cheers Simon. The tank in the 348 is aluminium (or some sort of alloy) and as such shouldn't corode like a steel tank. If I went for 'active storage' would it not be better to keep the tank almost empty and add fresh fuel every 6 months or so?

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    A 348 fuel tank, outside and inside:

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  7. #17
    sssdu01 is offline No I'm Spartacus Committee Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nosevi View Post
    Cheers Simon. The tank in the 348 is aluminium (or some sort of alloy) and as such shouldn't corode like a steel tank. If I went for 'active storage' would it not be better to keep the tank almost empty and add fresh fuel every 6 months or so?
    If you do get acetic acid from ethernol it will still attack the alloy tank. My personal preference (and what I do when my own car is laid up over the winter for 6 months), is for active storage, as a clutch plate can stick to the flywheel, brakes etc stick, and seals go off, if the car is unused for a long time. I fill the tank up with ethernol free fuel, and a few times over the winter I turn the wheels over, run the car up to temperature, and use all the electrics (windows/ lights/ air con/ etc) In reality ts only reversed in and out of the garage. Also leave the brake off and the car in neutral as brake pads can stick.

    I know some will say that warming the car up without driving it will cause all sorts of issues, but I think they are "Google Armchair Experts", who have never had to deal with anything seizing up or drying out.

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    Quote Originally Posted by sssdu01 View Post
    If you do get acetic acid from ethernol it will still attack the alloy tank. My personal preference (and what I do when my own car is laid up over the winter for 6 months), is for active storage, as a clutch plate can stick to the flywheel, brakes etc stick, and seals go off, if the car is unused for a long time. I fill the tank up with ethernol free fuel, and a few times over the winter I turn the wheels over, run the car up to temperature, and use all the electrics (windows/ lights/ air con/ etc) In reality ts only reversed in and out of the garage. Also leave the brake off and the car in neutral as brake pads can stick.
    Thanks Simon. Re the ethanol / fuel separation problem, what I meant was that as the tank is alloy is the acetic acid or fuel separation more of an issue than condensation (also remembering the garage is kept at a fairly even temp - it's slate floored, fully plastered etc and I use it as a room rather than a garage, albeit with a Ferrari in it)? That being the case would it not be best to just have a little fuel in the tank and put fresh in every so often, say every 4-6 months?

    Got all the rest. I actually have a private shared tarmac'd drive about 50 metres long so turning things over wouldn't be a snag.

    Edit: Had to go and get the bins from the end of the drive - actually 60 metres garage to public road.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nosevi View Post
    Thanks Simon. Re the ethanol / fuel separation problem, what I meant was that as the tank is alloy is the acetic acid or fuel separation more of an issue than condensation (also remembering the garage is kept at a fairly even temp - it's slate floored, fully plastered etc and I use it as a room rather than a garage, albeit with a Ferrari in it)? That being the case would it not be best to just have a little fuel in the tank and put fresh in every so often, say every 4-6 months?

    Got all the rest. I actually have a private shared tarmac'd drive about 50 metres long so turning things over wouldn't be a snag.
    Nos,

    Is the condensation thing actually a problem assuming you will still keep the car in its dehumidified bubble ?

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carper View Post
    Nos,

    Is the condensation thing actually a problem assuming you will still keep the car in its dehumidified bubble ?
    I don't really know to be honest. The whole room the car is in is dehumidified - golf launch monitor doesn't like humidity either and bubble is for protection on the off chance me or one of the tour pros who use the place hit a shank or something. Not happened yet but not taking any chances

    I'm guessing (but don't know) that condensation in the tank is more of an issue over the winter in cold weather...... but the whole place is heated so again, not an issue. Can you periodically just open the petrol cap for a hour or 3 and let the dry air from the room into the tank? Again, no idea but would have thought there's some form of one wayflap down the filler.

    Essentially I'm not sure Is condensation in the tank just another 'horror story' re storing cars? And as I say, with an alloy tank is it even a consideration?

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