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Thread: Ferrari 360 CEL and slow down light

  1. #1
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    Default Ferrari 360 CEL and slow down light

    Hi everyone, I have a 2005 360 F1 with 12,600 miles, UK car. All original with CATS, no modifications at all.

    Recently I had the CEL light come on after moderate easy driving of about 3 miles and the car seemed to sun a bit rough. I did the ECU rest by switching the power off overnight and all was well. I changed both MAFS after this event.
    Yesterday the car was idling rough from the start again and also while driving had loss of power too. I noticed the Slow Down light flash on very briefly. The CEL came on a few minutes after and stayed on. This all started after about 3 miles of driving again in low revs. I noticed that the slow down light would flash every time I changed gear, up or down it did the same. It was such a quick flash only at gear changes that it was hardly noticeable but it was there.

    Any ideas on what the could be? I don't have an OBD2 reader but recommendations on which to buy would be great.

    Many thanks.
    Peter

  2. #2
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    I had a similar problem with my 355.
    The encapsulation on the cat overheat relay cracks and lets moisture in causing it to fail eventually.
    If you have slowdown lights for each bank like the 355 then it should be quite easy to find.
    I started by swopping said relays over to the opposite side. The fault went with the faulty one so it was then replaced. A simple job and the relay/ecu wasnít much money.
    If the fault doesnít move then the sensor perhaps.
    Least likely would be the main ecu plug. I expect your overheat fault signals go via the main ecus so worth checking the plug connections are clean. Bit of contact cleaner is worth a go.

  3. #3
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    Thanks it, looks like there a a few known culprits such as the cat ECUs, thermocouple sensors, sparks and coils. I will buy a OBD2 sensor and see what codes I get, can anyone recommend a good one for these cars?
    I might change the above items as it seems to be good preventative maintenance as these cars are getting older now and still have the original parts. My cat ECUs are the green base ones. The car is from 2005 and are probably the original ones still.
    Does anyone know if the thermocouple is connected to the cats underneath the car which means the under trays need removing?
    Many thanks.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeterDavid911 View Post
    Thanks it, looks like there a a few known culprits such as the cat ECUs, thermocouple sensors, sparks and coils. I will buy a OBD2 sensor and see what codes I get, can anyone recommend a good one for these cars?
    I might change the above items as it seems to be good preventative maintenance as these cars are getting older now and still have the original parts. My cat ECUs are the green base ones. The car is from 2005 and are probably the original ones still.
    Does anyone know if the thermocouple is connected to the cats underneath the car which means the under trays need removing?
    Many thanks.
    I believe yours might be above if the picture Iíve seen is correct. Certainly worth a look from above.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ian355 View Post
    I believe yours might be above if the picture Iíve seen is correct. Certainly worth a look from above.
    I did see a large connector above the cats but doesn't look like the thermocouple ones. It looks like the lamda sensor which is accessible.
    Many thanks.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeterDavid911 View Post
    I did see a large connector above the cats but doesn't look like the thermocouple ones. It looks like the lamda sensor which is accessible.
    Many thanks.
    Are you looking at the rear of the cat?
    I would have expected a lambda front and back of the cat and the thermocouple at the rear beside the downstream lambda sensor.
    My 355 has the older 2.7 so lambda pre cat with the thermocouple at the rear. Iíve always thought they just added another lambda sensor post cat for the newer 5.2

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ian355 View Post
    Are you looking at the rear of the cat?
    I would have expected a lambda front and back of the cat and the thermocouple at the rear beside the downstream lambda sensor.
    My 355 has the older 2.7 so lambda pre cat with the thermocouple at the rear. Iíve always thought they just added another lambda sensor post cat for the newer 5.2
    I just had a look and found it. It's hidden under the exhaust silencer block and very difficult to get to, well for me anyway. Prices are high for the cat ecu's and thermocouples but might just have to bite the bullet and find a specialist to fit them.
    Many thanks.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeterDavid911 View Post
    I just had a look and found it. It's hidden under the exhaust silencer block and very difficult to get to, well for me anyway. Prices are high for the cat ecu's and thermocouples but might just have to bite the bullet and find a specialist to fit them.
    Many thanks.
    You could always buy and try one ecu at a time. I think mine was about £70 from eurospares but several years ago now. If itís anything like the 355 they will be easy to fit. Getting involved with the silencer is a lot more hassle.
    I presume you donít have a slowdown light for each bank? I used that track the fault when moving parts from side to side. I swopped cat ecus and the fault changed sides. I suppose if your engine is running rough on tickover ( just on one bank presumably) if it was from startup you might feel some difference in manifold temperature? Alternatively if you disable one bank in some way perhaps by disconnecting coil input you could tell which bank is not firing. Easiest would be to read the fault codes of course, assuming it would pick up faults from each side.
    Picture I saw was with the silencer box removed so that would explain your access problem I guess.

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    IMO, it would be a good idea, before going any further, to determine whether the alert is real (cat over heating) or whether it is the sensor system which is faulty (fortunately, it's usually the latter). So simply measure the temperature of the cats with an infra red thermometer. Once you are sure that it's not fuel entering the system, you will be more relaxed finding the source of the problem. Don't omit to read Aldous Voice's report on the subject.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by ronrob View Post
    IMO, it would be a good idea, before going any further, to determine whether the alert is real (cat over heating) or whether it is the sensor system which is faulty (fortunately, it's usually the latter). So simply measure the temperature of the cats with an infra red thermometer. Once you are sure that it's not fuel entering the system, you will be more relaxed finding the source of the problem. Don't omit to read Aldous Voice's report on the subject.
    Better advice than Iíve given you Peter. Sorry.

    Iíve probably been at home self isolating for too long now so not firing on all cylinders.

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