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Thread: f355 radiator removal and reinstall

  1. #1
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    Default f355 radiator removal and reinstall

    Anyone done this, with pics?

    Got the drivers side sucker out (needs a re-core) but putting it back looks like it will be fun...

    Tips / advice welcome please...

  2. #2
    tonyh's Avatar
    tonyh is offline Bus station dosser Club Member
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    Thanks Tony.
    Sadly, I need the other side.

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    Terry is offline Looks like a 308 to me? -The Ferrari 288 GTO Expert
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    Andrew, if you have removed the rads then you will be familiar with the installation so with everything clean and reassembled, refitting should not present any problems.

    I assume you removed the two rads as one assembly so as you see in the attached picture, they go back in as one assembly. New hardware and hoses are a must (IMHO).

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    Lube up the hoses well and slide onto water pipes together with hose clamps loosly fitted before installing rads. The hoses should then slide nicely onto rad.

    Leak check everything before refitting the wheel well linings.

  5. #5
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    Cheers Terry.
    Got the 2 rads out as 1 unit, then split them. The oil cooler looks fine, but the water rad is a disaster. Fins mostly gone and the tanks expanded so blocking mostof the airflow, hence why my oil and water temps seemed high. Not massively, but more than normal which prompted me to check.

    Its a bit of a shag to get into and very tight, but it all came out in the end. Had to loosen the cooling pipes form the firewall to get sufficient leverage to get the hoses off.

    Hoping the re-cored unit will result in temps returning to normal and also be a little easier to refit due to hoses, jubilee clamps and everything else being new. Also a big fan like you of replacing everything whilst you're there, as its always the 50p part that fails!

  6. #6
    Terry's Avatar
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    Know what you mean Andrew re the condition of the rads, this is what one of mine looked like.
    Attached Images Attached Images   

  7. #7
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    This was mine.

    http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...i/DSCF1651.jpg

    http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i3...i/DSCF1653.jpg

    It was a bit tight getting everything in and out but not too difficult. Took me about 2 hours to get them out (with help) and about 90 mins to get them back in. My tips for people are:
    1. Buy new radiator drain plugs. They break. Always.
    2. The oil cooler pipes have a 36mm nut on them. The top bracket nut on the rad (there's only 1) is 13mm. Otherwise, the rad just sits on 2 pegs at the bottom so once you lift it off, it 'slips' out with some swearing and grunting.
    Buy new radiator hose and jubilee clips. It makes things much easier to reassemble. Use lots of WD40, both during dis- and re-assembly.
    I undid the oil tank so I could get some more access but everything else can stay and you have just about enough access and movement.

    Now re-cored and reinstalled and temps are back to rock solid now.
    Last edited by cactussed; 17-07-2009 at 12:40 PM.

  8. #8
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    Hi Andrew. Doing mine soon also for the same reason. Finns missing. Where did you have your rads re-corred? Also what was the cost of this ?

  9. #9
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    Radi-Cool in Kent.
    http://www.radicool-services.co.uk/index.php
    Cost 180 including VAT.
    Took 2 days. Pressure tested with 12 month warranty

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    Quote Originally Posted by cactussed View Post
    Radi-Cool in Kent.
    http://www.radicool-services.co.uk/index.php
    Cost 180 including VAT.
    Took 2 days. Pressure tested with 12 month warranty
    Thanks Andrew.

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