What's new
By:
Advanced search…
Club Scuderia

This is a sample guest message. Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

  • Please take a minute to read this thread about our recent server issues and forum platform Switch

Another 348 Rear End Resto!

Q

Quigs

New member
Inspired by Pangea's thread, Ive decided to do something very similar. I know the 'engine out' has been covered a number of times but just thought I would post up my experience during the engine removal / refurb process, more so that I can ask questions along the way and also provide any tips which may help others.

Here it is all stripped down ready for removal this weekend (nice clutch!). Ive made up my wheeled dolly out of a modified pallet so that I can move it out of the way as required.

My intention is to also get the engine off the subframe for a few repairs and full refurb.

DSC07042.jpg

Still concerned how much I need to bend the gear linkage out of the way during the raising process. Think I'll get the linkages out all together for a re-grease

DSC07043.jpg

Here I decided instead to remove all the pipes and electrics from the charcoal filter, I just removed a single pipe and the filter as a whole.

DSC07044.jpg


DSC07041.jpg
 
Perhaps you may be able to answer something that Ive never really got a satisfactory answer to....

Why cant people with 2 post lifts etc just put the wheels back on and lift the car away rather than making a trolley??? see pic below

engine out.jpg
 
So this is where I am so far, engine out and off subframe. Frame now all stripped ready to be sent off for blasting and coating

Just a few questions:

1) Ive released the air manifold covers but the linkage to the central butterfly stops it from coming up. It seems impossible to release the nut from underneath! Any suggestions

2) Picture No 3 below - The plug leads don't seem to marry up with the electronic box thing. Im going to mark them as they are but is there any reason why Ive got electronic box 5-8 going to cylinders 1-4? Also, even if the box has been swapped from the other side, why aren't the leads marrying up with how the box identifies the numbers...if that makes sense?

This is how they are configured (the numbers on the cam cover are actual numbers stamped)

5 to Cyl 3
6 to Cyl 4
7 to Cyl 1
8 to Cyl 2



DSC07104.jpg

DSC07123.jpg

DSC07128.jpg
 
Last edited:
The electronic box things are your coil packs. Most probably at some stage someone has swapped them over to do some testing and never swapped them back.
 
Do the coil packs have the yellow stickers top and bottom.? 1-4 and 5-8 on each.Mine did. If so you can reverse them. As Jeff said they may have been
swapped for checking. They are only handed by the stickers. Same part numbers.

The retaining nut for the centre butterfly is locked with a tab washer. I imagine this could be tricky to release as access is limited under the manifold.
If you can knock the tab back you should be able to undo the 13mm nut. Others have done it. I took the manifold off in one piece so it was easy.
 
Re coil pack - Labels are only one side but if I use the numbers reflected (if that makes sense) they would line up to the correct cylinders - i.e. 8 would become 1.

So would it hurt if I swapped the coil packs back to where they should be and used the correct labelling?

I think I might take the manifold off. I guess fuel rail / injectors need to come off aswell?
 
Ref coil pack stickers - can only relay my experience.

When I bought my car, no stickers. I coveted other's stickers.
I took many photos and sighed.
I drew them out on CAD to get the printed for me at a local printers.

De-mounted one of my coil packs to give it a clean - and "boom!" the sticker from the other side was on the underneath.
Swapped (and hence inverted) both coil packs, and voila I have stickers (for the win!)

I have no idea if they came with stickers top and bottom, or if they've been swapped in the past as part of some fault tree diagnosis, and not swapped back because it worked.
But if you are "without" have a look underneath you may be pleasantly surprised. :thumbsup:
 
Quigs said:
Re coil pack - Labels are only one side but if I use the numbers reflected (if that makes sense) they would line up to the correct cylinders - i.e. 8 would become 1.

So would it hurt if I swapped the coil packs back to where they should be and used the correct labelling?

I think I might take the manifold off. I guess fuel rail / injectors need to come off aswell?
Click to expand...

If you intend to paint it all then you will have to strip the manifold. Worth checking or changing injector seals as you are in there. You can swap the coils
and use the correct labelling. If you have any problems with that pm me your address and I will send you some new stickers. N.
 
Well looks like this all won't be a complete waste of time. This water pipe under the plenum is just starting to fail and wet to the touch. Why its tightened so much I don't know

DSC07217.jpg
 
These came up on my engine out last month. All age related bits but double check all your coolant hoses. If they're the originals they may start to have signs of degradation and cracking. Something you don't want to go back to when engine is back in. Also be mindful ....will they last till next 'engine out'. Check the oil breather pipe that runs down the valley as this is prone to splitting and weeping.(it's the one pipe that makes your eyes water as you cannot get elsewhere but ferrari). Great to see you tackle this yourself. Step too far for me:thumbsup:
 
Looks like someone didn't know their own strength when tightening that hose up!!!:shocked:
Must of used a large socket wrench instead of a screwdriver----yikes!!!!:grin:
 
Top