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Decent wax

Hi Francis,
The "plonker" comment is at aimed at the person who would spend an obscene amount of money £2100 on that product, madness.
The link was there

You've got to have a screw loose to spend £2100 on Wax, or maybe not then:hmmm:
 
Roony said:
Out of interest

Before applying the swissvax do you use their own brand cleaner to remove old wax etc? or will claying and DA polishing do the same thing?:hmmm:
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I use their own cleaner but truth is any pre-wax cleaner should work.

Truth with all waxes is what makes by far the biggest difference to shine etc is the paint under it. Decent paint detail by Dave's mob at Sportscar Protection (or do it yourself) and you can frankly use any halfway good wax.
 
I use Raceglaze 55 and am perfectly happy with it, but am starting to wonder about using an acrylic sealant instead to make the flakes in my silver 'pop'

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
 
Sealants can often suppress flake pop, you'll maximise that with a good wax, like you have - its a tradeout between durability and shine/depth/pop, but for F-cars, durability is not really at the top of the list IMHO.

RG 55 wax should last 6 months with a couple of coats on a daily anyway
 
Ceramic coatings, of which Gtechniq is only one of a plethora, do require perfect paintwork to be applied to as they can only be removed by machine or even wet sanding, so if a defect is not removed prior, you cant do anything about it afterwards. We do one called Kenolon Ceramic Shield, but for this reason, its only available to trade for professional application. Finish can be fabulous, durability is many years, but its costly and not really a DIY job.

The Smartwax product is cleverly described - its no doubt '100% Paste wax' in the jar (no strawberries or live chickens in there) but isn't 100% Carnauba, and neither is Mothers Gold which also claimed that on the tin. What it really ought to say, to be clear, is that 100% of the wax in there is carnauba, which could be any colour - the white is the most refined (it starts a dirty brown colour, then yellow, then white). We used to sell the Smartwax product when it was £60, no idea why its suddenly shot up. I think its a show wax, so wont have great durability, though fine for Fcars which are mostly garaged and out of UV, which is what degrades wax finishes (along with non-ph neutral shampoo).

If we could manufacture our wax with our levels of carnauba for a quid Pete I'd be well chuffed. And buying a 458...
 
Roony said:
Out of interest

Before applying the swissvax do you use their own brand cleaner to remove old wax etc? or will claying and DA polishing do the same thing?:hmmm:
Click to expand...

Other quality pre-wax cleaners will do the same job, but if you have polished the paint using your DA you'd still be advised to pre-wax as many compounds can leave a lot of fillers and oils behind, which you'd be best removing to ensure the wax adheres properly.
Clay will remove any bonded on debris but is a mechanical rather than chemical process
 
MoreThanPolish said:
...If we could manufacture our wax with our levels of carnauba for a quid Pete I'd be well chuffed. And buying a 458...
Click to expand...

The Brazilian government would pay you to set up a factory there right now...It would be pennies per jar

Good branding and this time next year it would be a LAF you'd be having...

Serious question what proportion of wax to ceramics shifting have you seen in the last 5 years?
 
MoreThanPolish said:
If we could manufacture our wax with our levels of carnauba for a quid Pete I'd be well chuffed. And buying a 458...
Click to expand...

I was just responding to everyone being so hung up on the carnauba in the wax. T1 is the most pure carnauba that leaves Brazil, it's yellow (looks almost white when you mill it but is in fact yellow) and the amount of T1 in any jar of car wax cost less than £1 as a raw product. Clearly making the wax costs more than that though :thumbsup:
 
Yes, there is some skill involved in taking a raw product as hard as concrete and blending it so it can be spread easily.

But so many brands are disingenuous about their contents, we just decided to follow the really big brands convention

I'm not so sure there has been a quantum shift away from wax to sealants or glass coatings, many people still use both and its only the more vociferous that together give the impression of a wholesale shift. Especially as the costs of the new products are higher than many are used to paying too, though at the top end there's been more change. But overall, that's not the bulk of the market in revenue terms. Glass coats are still relatively new.
 
Mark

Does having a ceramic coating applied (as you say to properly prepared paint) and then waxing on top of that work OK?
 
Agreed with the first point and as I said, really like your Race Glaze 55. Will be giving it a go once my Swisswax runs out.

As for using other coatings so you don't need to wax your car, maybe I'm a bit sad but I actually enjoy waxing my car and seeing it gleam afterwards. Added to which waxes like RG 55 and Swisswax smell fantastic, really natural. I've always found cheap waxes (talking the sort you might pick up in Halfords) smell 'chemically' and synthetic whereas the more expensive waxes smell of natural ingredients.
 
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Yes, I have fully clayed the car and polished using the DA.... Its now back in the Carcoon until I either use the last bit or Dodo or buy some 55... So is it best to use a product prior to applying the wax? if so what do you suggest?

Thanks..

MoreThanPolish said:
Other quality pre-wax cleaners will do the same job, but if you have polished the paint using your DA you'd still be advised to pre-wax as many compounds can leave a lot of fillers and oils behind, which you'd be best removing to ensure the wax adheres properly.
Clay will remove any bonded on debris but is a mechanical rather than chemical process
Click to expand...
 
Roony - now you've got it prepped you ought to use a pre-wax as you are clearly doing the job thoroughly, there are many alternatives but products like our Race Glaze Signature Pre-wax (pink, 250ml £15), P21S/R222 (350ml, £14.99), Zymol HD Cleanse (hard to work, expensive (£30 for 250ml)) or Dodo Lime Prime Lite (on offer at £9.90 for 250ml)will do the job. We stock them all, there are others available like the Swissvax one which works very well but costs £34 (250ml) and for no appreciable gain. Then wax.

Francis - waxing over Ceramic coatings can add some sparkle and as Pete says, is quite satisfying for those who wish to commune with their car. Wax wont lengthen the life of the coating really, especially on our sorts of car.
 
Thanks Mark.. I might just order some dodo if you think it will do the same job with the 55....:thumbsup:

MoreThanPolish said:
Roony - now you've got it prepped you ought to use a pre-wax as you are clearly doing the job thoroughly, there are many alternatives but products like our Race Glaze Signature Pre-wax (pink, 250ml £15), P21S/R222 (350ml, £14.99), Zymol HD Cleanse (hard to work, expensive (£30 for 250ml)) or Dodo Lime Prime Lite (on offer at £9.90 for 250ml)will do the job. We stock them all, there are others available like the Swissvax one which works very well but costs £34 (250ml) and for no appreciable gain. Then wax.

Francis - waxing over Ceramic coatings can add some sparkle and as Pete says, is quite satisfying for those who wish to commune with their car. Wax wont lengthen the life of the coating really, especially on our sorts of car.
Click to expand...
 
Roony said:
Thanks Mark.. I might just order some dodo if you think it will do the same job with the 55....[emoji106]
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Double check you order the right thing - there's Lime Prime and Lime Prime Lite. The normal Lime Prime is a more aggressive polish, and will remove some swirls etc
 
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