What's new
Club Scuderia

This is a sample guest message. Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

  • Please take a minute to read this thread about our recent server issues and forum platform Switch

348/355 door jamb switch

Nosevi

Administrator
Staff member
Admin
Afternoon all. I'm having a bit of bother with my internal cabin light and door edge lights.

Obviously when you open the door they go on and go off again when you close the door. The problem I'm having is when I close the passenger door the light stay on 99% of the time only occasionally going off. If I press the switch inside the door jamb on the car the lights go off no problem. I've wet the end of the switch to ensure it's making contact with the door hinge when I close the door which it is.

When I press the switch manually the light only goes off at the far end of it's travel ie when it's pushed all the way in which I think may be the issue. Is there any chance that one of you 348 or 355 owners (it's the same part) could open your door so the internal light goes on and manually press the switch in the door jamb to see how much travel it takes for the internal light to go out. Does it go out with a bit of travel, half way, almost all the way in required? Cheers.

I've had the switch out of the car and taken it apart, it's a pretty simple item so can't really see where it's going wrong.

For now I've pulled the fuse to avoid battery drain but have obviously lost my headlight day flashers in the process. Why they chose to put these 2 systems on the same fuse is beyond me. There again, why they wired most of these cars the way they did is a bit beyond me as well.........

switch.jpg
 
Just to follow up on this as no one was able to do the test, I bought another switch and it now works. It was just an issue with the old switch needing to be pushed in further than the door did when it closed in order to break the circuit - the old switch needs to be depressed almost all the way in, the new breaks the circuit much sooner.
 
good to hear. i did mean to go test mine; but been distracted, sorry.
No probs. I was pretty sure the switch not working early enough in its travel was the issue and the switch was just a Hella unit so although they are on 'back order' (ie never) from the usual Ferrari suppliers (MCP, Eurospares etc) a new one was only £12 from Amazon. Always worth searching by the manufacturer part number rather than Ferrari part number for items like this.
 
Back
Top